Tour fever had certainly broken out along the last few metres up to the starting line in Düsseldorf. The queue stretched out of the tourist information office and up to the pavement. “I must confess to buying a jersey,” says one Düsseldorf lady, slightly embarrassed. It is just like the January sales: a sign in the window saying, ‘Tour de France jerseys are here!’ in big letters entices fans. Beer glasses and cycle bells are also for sale. Many fans take part in cycle races themselves and roll past over the bumpy pavement with their racing bikes.

A couple from Franken have brought flags in the Tour colours to cheer on the racers. When the race starts in Germany, you’ve got to be there, say the enthusiastic amateur cyclists who even cycle some of the tour stages themselves. “We have such good cyclists in Germany but the doping scandals unfortunately overshadow everything,” says the woman in her Frankish dialect. The couple has travelled to the start of the race on the Rhine in their mobile home and are staying overnight on the garage drive of their friends’ neighbours. These fans have their flags at the ready: “Allez, allez!”.

Traces of the world’s biggest cycle race can be seen everywhere: colourful bikes are hung up outside pubs as decorations, can be seen in shop windows or even bizarrely protruding out of a huge flower box. One brewery has painted the paving stones in front of the door yellow like the famous yellow jersey worn by the winner of the Tour de France. Over 2,500 volunteers are pitching in behind the scenes, showing visitors the way and looking after guests.

52,000 car drivers were contacted in order to keep the cycle routes and access areas free on both days of the Tour, Saturday and Sunday. Many areas and streets have been blocked off. The entire cycle route in the city has been cordoned off with metal fencing. During the race on both days there is a flight ban over the city centre – only the police, emergency services and the Tour organisers are allowed in the air. Several thousand police will be present. French police are also providing their support and have arrived in their own cars. On Thursday, officials from both countries went on patrol. Still to arrive were the French motorbike police who will accompany the stages, said a police spokesman.

Some business people have drawn their own conclusions from the expected restrictions. “There is a strong rumour that it will be impossible to reach the city centre. Rather than standing here alone for seven hours with no customers, I prefer to shut up shop”, says wine merchant Birgit Felzmann. Her window is decorated with a racing bike in honour of the race. “I’m a Tour de France fan,” she says.

(Original text: Ulrike Hofsähs / Translation: Caroline Payne)